Finding quaint towns, maze-like medinas

I was looking for a city in Morocco which I can visit as a side trip from Spain. I would’ve gone to popular places like Marrakech, Fes, or go on a trip for a couple of days in the Sahara Desert. However, I figured I would rather go to those places on a much longer trip. I looked for the most affordable flights from Madrid and decided to visit Tangier. 

Most of my friends and acquaintances who have been to Morocco bypass this city for its more famous counterparts. Upon further research, I realized that Tangier was an interesting destination and a hub to other places that I wanted to visit. With a sense of adventure and curiosity (and a flexible itinerary), I went off to experience Tangier.

Tangier, the door to Africa

Some would call Tangier the “Door to Africa” because of its location along the Strait of Gibraltar and its proximity to the southern shores of Spain. 

In fact, many visitors would often take the ferry from Tarifa, Spain to Tangier either as a long day trip or part of a longer itinerary around Morocco. 

A tapestry of civilizations is a defining characteristic of Tangier. The city has been under the rule or influence of various empires from the Phoenicians to the Carthaginians to the Romans to the Portuguese to the French over the centuries. Control of the city was tantamount to influence on important trade routes and projection of power in the region.

Tangier was also a place of interest for various political and literary figures in the middle of the 20th century such as Winston Churchill, Jack Kerouac, Paul Bowles, and William Burroughs just to name a few. Their reasons were a mixture of escape (the freezing temperatures of winter and/or personal problems), creative inspiration, relaxation, colonial, and anything in between. My reasons for going were also a mix of these plus a hint of curiosity.

It was April during my trip, it was cold enough to wear a jacket (think Tagaytay or Baguio weather in the summer) but there was enough sunshine to make the trip pleasant. 

A walk along Tangier Beach from either end allows one to see history unfold; the cityscape transforms from high-rise buildings, hotels, and malls into the white-washed houses, shops and structures of the ancient medina. 

If you don’t feel like walking, you can always pay to ride a horse or take a taxi, like in many other cities you either insist on using the meter or agree on a fixed price to get anywhere. Locals and visitors alike converge on the beach throughout the day, sunset is a good time to visit.

The medina or old city is a confluence of Tangier’s long and storied connection with various cultures. You’ll see mosques, churches, a synagogue, white-washed houses and shops, and art deco buildings along the medina’s serpentine and narrow alleys or just outside its walls. 

I encountered a few friendly locals who were curious enough to ask where I’m from or immediately assumed I’m from X Asian country (ni hao and konnichiwa were common greetings), and some would just approach me to strike a simple conversation and shake my hand. 

When a few find out I’m from the Philippines, their follow-up question would sometimes be, “Are you a seaman?” There’s still the insistent shopkeeper who’ll offer a “special price” just for you.  

Despite being touristy, you can still feel and experience the medina’s history and culture. You can move away from the expensive restaurants and cafes that specifically target tourists. 

Try a local sweet, drink coffee, tea or juice like the locals do, or sit and do nothing in a cafe or a bench in a square. It seems like life can move at a glacial pace in Tangier or hurried along in a whirlwind of busy-ness, the choice is up to you.  

The artistic vibe of Asilah

After researching about Tangier, I discovered that it’s a convenient base to visit smaller towns as day trips. One such place that caught my attention is the quaint coastal town of Asilah. I hopped on a train and was on my way. 

Asilah’s main draw is the medina. It might be smaller than the ones you’ll see in bigger cities like Tangier, Marrakech, and Fes, but that’s the point, its quaintness is a huge part of this coastal town’s charm. The Portuguese conquered this port town in the 15th century. They reinforced the walls surrounding the medina to thwart possible invasions. 

Setting aside the history lessons, Asilah is the ideal spot to just chill (as if I haven’t done a lot of that during my stay in Morocco). As I explored the medina, I immediately noticed its artistic vibe; the colorful street art and the small local galleries give this town an air of an artist’s enclave. 

I then read about the International Cultural Moussem of Asilah. This annual festival draws all sorts of artists from all over the world to showcase their skills. Painters use the white-washed walls in the medina as their canvas. 

They draw animals, abstractions, shapes, or whatever comes to their imagination. The organizers repaint the walls every year to cover the previous year’s murals. I wasn’t in Asilah during the festival, but I did see a few of the remaining artworks. 

The best viewpoint in the city is from Krikia. The views of the coast, the walls, and the white-washed buildings make for a picturesque backdrop.   

Wandering through Tetouan

As someone who likes to visit UNESCO World Heritage Sites, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to visit Tetouan while I was in Tangier. I took a shared taxi from the train station to Tetouan. 

My main destination was the city’s old medina. In the 9th century, the Idrīsid dynasty were the residents of Tetouan. Its later inhabitants were the Marīnid dynasty. The latter reinforced the fortifications of the medina in the14th century. 

Moorish Andalusian refugees lived in Tetouan in the 16th century, hence the influence in the medina’s architecture and ambiance. I felt this influence having been to Andalusia before my trip to Tangier. FYI: The few locals and residents I met mentioned that Spanish was widely spoken in the northern parts of Morocco (this includes Tangier and Tetouan). 

The Spaniards captured Tetouan in different instances in the mid 19th century and early 20th century. The Spanish dictator Francisco Franco made it the capital of Spanish Morocco during his reign. The integration of Tetouan back to Morocco took place in 1956, the same year the country gained its independence from their colonizers. 

The small size of the maze-like medina made it easy for me to navigate its winding alleys. It felt more local compared to the medina I went to in Chefchaouen. 

The white walls were more of a dirty white variation unlike the curated and Instagram-ready walls of Chefchaouen. People minded their own business even if I took multiple photos and no one bothered me about the products they sold. 

Tangier, Asilah, and Tetouan were noteworthy destinations that displayed the eclectic mix of histories and cultures that defined a part of Morocco. The ancient maze-like medinas, the locals, visitors, and residents I had the pleasure of meeting, and the hours I spent doing nothing made the experience worthwhile. 

This short trip was a great introduction to the Door to Africa. It gave me a glimpse of what else the country has to offer and made me eager to plan a return trip to see more of it. – Rappler.com